First and foremost, sorry for the SEO bullshit you’re going to see on this page. I went through a decent amount of trouble finding this out the hard way, and I’m hoping that I’m able to make someone else’s life easier by finding this page.
I do not make any money from the links below. They’re not affiliate links, I’m just out to help the next guy.
In 2018, I got my favorite trainer of all time – a Kurt Kinetic Rock and Roll Road Machine trainer. I’ve ridden it for years, and slowly but surely it’s started to degrade. The most recent issue – the rubber bushings that allow the trainer to rock and roll finally gave out. Easy, I thought, I’ll just go get replacements. Nope! Kurt Kinetic sold to Magene and quietly stopped selling in the U.S. No more replacement parts, and no documentation about what it is.
What you’re about to read is my quest to source and install replacement parts.
Kurt Kinetic Rock and Roll Road Machine hardware
This is what I know right now. As I keep doing maintenance on this thing, I’ll keep updating.
Note: The sources for the hardware are accurate as of December 2025
| Description/Name | Specifications | Source |
| Upper Mounting Bolts The two large bolts that mount the upper “U” to the lower frame | M14x55mm Grade 10.9 Flange Bolts 1.5mm Thread Pitch | McMaster-Carr |
| Bushing Replacement | This is the closest thing I’ve found. See the notes below for how to make these work. Energy Suspension 9.8145 Bump Stops | Energy Suspension |
| Replacement Bolts for Energy Suspension Bushing Conversion | M14x70 Grade 8.8 Steel Hex Head Screws 1.5mm Thread Pitch You can probably get away with 65mm but I left some extra to be safe. | McMaster-Carr |
Kurt Kinetic Rock ‘n’ Roll Road Machine bushing Replacement
- Remove the resistance unit by unscrewing the tension knob all the way, until it comes out of the black piece that it’s screwed into.
- Remove the acorn nut and washer on the right-hand side of the resistance unit.
- Pull out the long bolt that holds the resistance unit to the upper frame. BE CAREFUL: REMOVING THIS BOLT WILL MAKE THE RESISTANCE UNIT FALL. IT’S VERY HEAVY AND UNWIELDY. YOU HAVE BEEN WARNED, DO NOT SUE ME.
- Remove the two large bolts that hold the upper frame to the lower frame.
- Remove the the top frame from the bottom frame and set everything aside. Clean everything up with IPA (Not the beer, you weird cyclists. The alcohol. Isopropyl alcohol.)
- I used Energy Suspension 9.8145 bushings — they’re the closest I could find. However, they do need some minor modification. To make them fit around the bottom plate nuts, you’ll have to drill two of them out. Do not drill out all four. I only had a 1″ hole saw, but you can use anything that works. At a minimum, you’ll need to drill to like a 20mm diameter. YMMV but make it a tight fit.
- Optional: You can cut off the little risers on the top of the bushings. I cut mine off, but I ended up slicing the hell out of my hand. I don’t think it’s worth it, honestly.
- I did not end up using the metal bushing liners. I will update this page if that ends up being a problem.
- The Energy Suspension bushings are a bit taller than the old ones, so you’ll need longer replacement bolts. For ease, I’ve added links to the ones I used in the table above.
- Bolt everything back together the same way that it came out!
- Because we did not use the metal bushing liners, there’s no longer a ‘cinched’ fit. Make sure to either slap a M14x1.5 Nylock on the bottom, use a lock washer on the top, or Loctite the bolt to make sure it doesn’t vibrate itself to pieces. You have been warned, do not sue me.
- After everything has been bolted back down, you can adjust the tension to your liking to make sure you actually rock and roll.
Hope this helps, and see you on Zwift!
Ryan Stankard 